Black women are often left out of wider beauty and health conversations. However, the emergence of disruptor brands like Topicals, UOMA Beauty and Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty and Fenty Skin have reclaimed their seat at the table, driving in-depth research into varying skin types with a wide range of products. In these parts, another such brand is Blue Poppy, which is co-owned by Nigerian sisters, Sei and Ebi Onitsha. The newly launched brand, based in Nigeria, focuses on nurturing healthy skin and self-care practices to boost confidence and ensure buyers feel they are the best versions of themselves.

A motivating factor that led to the creation of Blue Poppy was the predominance of skin lightening products with harmful products that capitalised off our skin insecurities. In the late 1960’s, studies show that 60% of urban African women were reported using skin lightening formulas, and while the numbers have reduced now, a slew of companies still offer such products. However, despite the market for skin lightening products, brands like Blue Poppy are emerging and providing health body-positive alternatives for African women. For Blue Poppy, the sister duo want their customers to “Find beauty everyday by looking in the mirror.”

The pair shared that the brand’s overall goal is improving skin health by the most sustainable means possible. Sustainability, here, pertains to not just the longevity of product type through the best researched and sourced materials but also products that aid the upkeep of a greener planet. “There aren’t a lot of recycling programs in Nigeria and we want to make sure that we’re helping in every single way we can while fostering care for our skin. We are making sure that the products aren’t harming the environment. We don’t want the steal from A to pay B,” Ebi shared.  

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by BLÜE POPPY (@bluepoppyofficial)

After undergoing expansive research and development into the world of skincare, Blue Poppy is well versed in the best and most optimal ingredients to get the healthiest version of ones skin. As a Nigerian brand, the sisters tell the NATIVE that majority of their ingredients are sourced locally. A large aspect of their ethos also champions skin rejuvenation considering the harsh and extreme weather conditions in Nigeria, hence their leading hydrating sheet masks.

Ebi explained, “We’re really interested in African beauty, with ingredients that can be sourced from home. We work with skin scientists and find what works with our skin and it is largely homegrown. When we’re sourcing ingredients we start with homegrown materials. The focus is very gentle, hydrating products.”

Following their launch, we caught up with Sei and Ebi to share the origins of their homegrown brand, Blue Poppy, and their insights into being entrepreneurs in Nigeria. The pair also shared some details regarding ingredient sourcing and formula testing for their products.

Our conversation, which follows below, has been lightly edited for clarity. 

NATIVE: Please start by introducing yourselves.

Sei: I’m Sei, co-founder of Blue Poppy. I work currently as the CEO & Creative Director of Blue Poppy Cosmetics. I have two degrees in Accounting. I moved back to Nigeria because I felt it was necessary for me to grow the brand here. 

Ebi: I’m Ebi and also work as the creative director of Blue Poppy. I started Blue Poppy with my sister because there was a space in the market and we wanted to see how best we could aid in filling that gap. 

What’s your background in beauty and cosmetics? How did you get into doing that?

Sei: I had really bad hormonal acne when I was a teenager. When I moved to America to start university, it was just me trying to figure out ways to clear my acne. I saw various dermatologists and tried to figure out how to navigate getting better skin. That was where my interest in skincare started. I haven’t gone to aesthetician school, however, I have taken some classes and gained some certifications. We have also carried out extensive research on what works for African skin.

Ebi: Similarly, I don’t have an official degree in aesthetics. It started with Sei’s journey through hormonal acne and we discovered that there weren’t enough products that catered to our skin. I’m very dark and prone to hyperpigmentation. This led to the discovery that there just weren’t a lot of things that catered to our skin type and thus our passion sort of was born.

What’s it been like establishing a business as sisters?

Sei: It’s been really fun. It made sense for both of us to work together because we have our strong points. Ebi is super creative, being an interior designer. She also works in psychology so she has huge points when it comes to the creative side. Also the branding and marketing. I have a business degree so when it’s down to that, I’m also very savvy. It just made sense that we work together and we both considered our passion for skincare. 

Ebi: We’re in a very yin-yang relationship. When we wanted to start the brand, I don’t feel like there was anybody that would understand better. Being sisters, growing up together and understanding the world a particular way definitely helped establish the brand. 

What inspired the name, Blue Poppy?

Sei: Our mom. She loves flowers and she also went to a flower-themed secondary school. Our love for flowers stemmed from her. We thought flowers were a great way to represent our skin because they need a lot of love, patience, delicacy, and gentility to actually bloom. That was where it just started.

There’s a high saturation of skincare brands in the country. What makes your brand stand out from the competition?

Sei: We pride ourselves on our quality. Quality of material, ingredients, packaging, everything. We have great eyes for details and the aim isn’t only buying and selling. We want to make a profit but our main goal is quality. For our sheet mask, we’ve researched across the world and you’ll notice that our material is just different. We make sure our quality is consistent across the board. 

Ebi: It’s just to foster that trust. When we started the company, there were a lot of skincare brands, and still are, but we didn’t feel like there were any that was targeting us. It was mostly lightening products. There wasn’t much on sustainable self-care or skin repair. We wanted to create a brand based on quality and trust. It is not random or lacklustre. Our production is very consumer and research focused. With internality, we decided to start small but make sure each product has the right ingredients.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by BLÜE POPPY (@bluepoppyofficial)

How do you usually go about it, ingredient sourcing and testing formulas for your products?

Ebi: We’re really interested in African beauty, with ingredients that can be sourced from home. We work with skin scientists and find what works with our skin and it is largely homegrown. When we’re sourcing ingredients we start with homegrown materials. The focus is very gentle, hydrating products, especially considering the environment and weather. Aside [from] products or ingredients that already work—AHA’s & BHA’s—Nigeria has very extreme weather. We offer products that add hydration predominantly.

Your best-selling product is the hydrating sheet masks. Why was this your first product launch of choice?

Sei: When I was clearing my hormonal acne, I started with very aggressive products. I noticed that my face was always peeling or dry. I tried a lot of oils and they just were not as effective as a sheet mask. Koreans were the first people to find out the efficiency of sheet masks. They were not lying that it helped rejuvenate the skin, particularly African skin that required hydration to fix a lot of things. It helps fix a lot of things hyperpigmentation and acne too. We deemed it necessary to bring it back here and educate people. That boost is needed to see that radiant glass skin that you’re looking for.

Having a brand based in Nigeria must come with a handful of challenges, how do you work through some of these?

Sei: From NAFDAC registration to prices constantly going up or dollar rates, it hasn’t been the easiest journey but our why is very strong. We need to realise that our country is growing and we really motivate ourselves. That’s why we bounce off each other. It’s very nice to have someone that is there to motivate you. 

What are some of the considerations you have when creating your products? You already talked about how the weather conditions. What are some of the other factors you consider?

Ebi: I’ll say quality of ingredients, effectiveness and sustainability. The green part is also very important. There aren’t a lot of recycling programs in Nigeria and we want to make sure that we’re helping in every single way we can while fostering care for our skin. We are making sure that the products aren’t harming the environment. We don’t want the steal from A to pay B. 

How long have you been in the cosmetology industry now and what are some of the things you’ve learnt? 

Sei: We started creating our sheet masks in 2018 but officially launched in 2022. It was quite the process but we gained a lot of knowledge overall. The testing stage is so underrated because it’s extensive, understanding our skin types and how it all works. 

What other products or services do you have to offer beyond sheet masks in the future?

Sei: We’re currently testing five new products. We’re thinking of clay masks just because we really like masks. Moisturisers, cleansing balms, micellar waters, makeup and so much more. It’s an extensive line that’s taking us a while but it actually takes a while in the testing and research phase. 

How do you ensure that your techniques or modes of production are up to date with the cosmetology industry in Africa or beyond Africa?

Ebi: Innovation and research. We work hand in hand with people that have our skin types, especially in Korea. We love Korea because they’re ahead in technology. The researchers and cosmetologists we work with take time to analyse the market and think of what next could be beneficial beyond being trendy. 

How would you describe a typical Blue Poppy consumer? What characteristics or traits would you say that they have?

Sei: I would say they are people who are passionate about their lifestyle, not just skincare. They love self-care and they love making sure that every part of who they are is taken care of. They’re very intentional but at the same time, they’re also like super fun people who love bold packaging. My ideal customers are 16 to 25 year old trying to be the best version of themselves. Blue Poppy is fostering that culture of confidence and loving where you are at whatever point. 

Featured Image Credits/The NATIVE